When it comes to runway presentations, no one does them quite like Ziad Ghanem. At his A/W 10 show, when the glorious creatures donning his eccentric threads paraded down the catwalk, no one expected famed burlesque dancer Immodesty Blaize to make an appearance in the finale. And they certainly didn’t expect her to peel off her ensemble not once, but twice- thus revealing the pièce de résistance of Ghanem’s exquisite creations in a sensual stunt that prompted the crowd to go wild in appreciation.
Ghanem’s latest runway foray was no different. A lavish production that was initialised by a short film courtesy of the couturier and director Marnie Hollande saw spectacular visuals that complemented the theatrics of his S/S 11 collection. Entitled Mother Russia, the film is rich in carefully considered composition that in turn boldly exhibits the flamboyant silhouettes of his designs. Surreal yet utterly poignant, the film depicts Ghanem’s legion of unconventional models as they elegantly unveil his clothing through a series of defiant poses and confidant strides as the camera fluidly glides past. The film is pure Andrey Tarkovsky, a Soviet and Russian filmmaker who was synonymous for producing films that were characterised by their spirituality and metaphysical themes. Consequently the overall effect of the film is almost dreamlike in its demeanour, a blatant homage to the Soviet era and its creative exports.
The poetic nature of the film is reflected in the designs that draw inspiration from the notion that an exposure to an array of different cultures plays a crucial role in shaping the character and style of individuals and the environment they grew up in. Noting how contemporary cities have now become cultural melting pots, the distinctiveness of each place as become muddied to a point whereby a collision of cultures have married together to create something that is completely new and original.
Indeed, Ghanem’s collection very much embodies this spirit: Structured shapes are juxtaposed by flowing garments emblazoned with a cacophony of prints and patterns. Bright explosions of colours bleed into garments loaded with dramatic accents. And finally, a flurry of embellishment adds to the overall aura of intrinsic Avant-Garde.
While it may be another season before we get the opportunity to sample the fascinating delights of Ghanem’s next collection, it shall no doubt serve as a natural progression from previous collections that are deeply rooted in Ghanem’s passion for the ever-evolving nature of multiculturalism. Of course, how he chooses to reveal his next collection? Well, expect the unexpected.
For more of my contribution to DRAMA including the main fashion story that I assisted on (with lots of lovely boys) click here.
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